Diamond drapes take inspiration from haute couture in Dior’s new high jewelry
Victoire de Castellane’s high jewelry collection, ‘Dior Print’, plays with textured themes
Stripes, checks, tie-dye and Liberty prints, more commonly reserved for clothing, are drawn on swirling loops of diamonds in Victoire de Castellane’s high jewelry collection, “Dior Print”.. The artistic director of Dior Joaillerie is inspired by the subtleties of a haute couture dress for the 137 new pieces, which are adorned with playful patterns.
“The idea was to ‘draw prints on ribbons or flowers,'” de Castellane tells us about her take on classic, figurative prints. ‘Each printed pattern is thought of as a hand-sewn fabric, [on which the] the positioning of the stones gives a deliberately flashy appearance to the whole.’
The collection imbues ribbons of precious stones with delicate gradations of color or draws the unmistakable Liberty print in ruby, spinel and yellow diamonds. Graphic rings, cuffs and necklaces eschew traditional symmetrical silhouettes to adopt haphazard design codes, while floral prints and stripes are imposed on strands of gold that become an intricate necklace.
‘For me, color in jewelry is very important and I like to use all kinds of colored stones; mix them up and play with gradients, contrasts or monochromatic,” de Castellane adds. “I have the chance to work with the best Parisian workshops, which produce my creations and adapt or develop the necessary manufacturing processes in order to achieve the design I have in mind.
Technically accomplished, the Dior high jewelry collection draws on traditional watchmaking know-how to create light articulated links for a necklace that drapes over the collarbone, its fluid shape and its tangle of multicolored ribbons more material than metal.
“New techniques have been developed that pay homage to the designs behind the creations. The necklaces, whose necklines are formed by jeweled ribbons, challenged the workshops, which had to create fine volumes that perfectly fit the skin. §